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The Secrets of Successfully Growing Plants in Pots
Our Australian summers are fiercely hot and long and we don't seem to realise that they need more attention than pots in England and Europe. We dream about the beautiful red geraniums in the window boxes in Italy and they always look gorgeous, or the beautiful citrus in huge pots in French chateau. But there is probably a team of gardeners looking after them or a very conscious home owner, keeping the water and fertiliser up to them. Pots are fantastic as you can grow all sorts of plants from dwarf fruit trees to vegetables to lovely colourful annuals.
There are many many different types of pots such as plastic, terracotta and cement ones. They restrict the growth of the plant's roots and its ability to search out water and this is what I think we gardeners forget. The plant is relying on us to supply it with water and nutrients so that it can carry out all its metabolic functions. The one problem is that we can't see the water evaporating from the soil or transpiring from the leaves and therefore we don't know when the soil has dried out. There are tell tale signs such as the leaves wilting but we don't always notice this or understand what the plant is telling us. Terracotta pots are notorious for this and black pots are notorious for absorbing the heat and literally cooking the plants roots. Cement pots leach lime and kill acid loving plants such as azaleas.
We used to make our own potting mix or just use our own garden soil, but there are problems with this such as drainage and pests and diseases habouring in the medium. So modern potting mixes developed to overcome these problems. But they are not actually soil,they are called media and made up from a large range of materials such as pine bark, sand, compost, fine rock particles and man-made materials such as perlite. They are scientifically designed to drain water away from the roots but still hold enough for the plants to access. There are many different types such as seed raising mix, propagating (for cuttings) mix, native mix, azalea mix and so on. You get what you pay for. If you only pay $3.00 then you won't get a very good quality mix. But if you buy the more expensive brands, then you will get extra things like fertiliser, water saving granules and a better quality of particles that makes up the mix. I buy a middle of the range mix and add my own cow manure and extra water saving granules. It does become expensive.
Potting mix only lasts about 2 - 3 years and by the end of the 3rd year, it has run out of nutrients, become compacted and probably full of roots as the plant has grown. You will notice the plant has started to decline. It is time to re-pot and it can be a bugger of a job if the plant roots have attached themselves to the pot. Sometimes the only way to get the plant out, is to break the pot. The deeper the pot, the harder it is to get out and one trick is to use an old pruning saw and cut around the sides of the plant and pull! It can take a lot of muscle and it is a good idea to have a strong friend present - even just to give encouragement. It is one of those rotten jobs!
Once you have got the plant out and you have recovered from the effort, you have two choices:
- Pot it up into a bigger pot
- Prune back the roots and put it back in the same pot - if you haven't broken it.
Never, never, pot down a size, always pot up.
Hint: Soak your plant for several hours in a bucket of water with some liquid seaweed fertiliser in it. You will be amazed how much quicker it recovers from its surgery.
When pruning roots, I try to remove a total of 1/3 from the bottom and around the sides of the plant. An old pruning saw is ideal for this job as if you use a new one, you will ruin the blade on the media's particles. If you are using the same pot, a clean is a good idea. Wash it with warm soapy water, rinse it, then dip in some White King or Methylated Spirits for about 10 minutes, to kill any pests and diseases and then rinse it again. This sterilizes the pot and allows you to re-use it. Sterilizing the pot is important when growing seeds or cuttings in old pots. If you don't, your failure rate will be very high.
When putting the plant into its new pot, don't forget to leave a lip so that when you water, it doesn't spill down the side. So many people pot to the top and there is no where for the water to go. I also like to water in with some liquid seaweed fertiliser as that helps that plant get over its transplant shock and to start growing new roots.
Hint: What to do with that old potting mix? Put it into your compost heap and it will break down and become useful. The only time you don't compost it, is if the plant was diseased or covered in pests. You could infect your compost if you put it in.
If you have really big pots, re-potting plants mightn't be an option. Make sure when you first set them up, that you use the best potting mix you can or even better a sandy/clay loam as it will last much longer than potting mix. Always make sure you leave a decent lip, so that over the years you can fertilise and mulch it without raising the soil level. If you raise the leCel too high your plant might suffocate. Plant roots need to be able to access oxygen.
Also, don't be fooled by the word 'organic' on potting mix bags, it is a marketing tool and they are implying that it is special and that other mixes aren't organic. Well that is not true! Everything that is alive or has once been alive contains carbon and so it is organic. True, some potting mixes also contain inorganic material such as sand grains, perlite and rock minerals. But if the potting mix base on living or once living material then it is already organic. If it very important to read the information on the bag and see what it contains.
One of the biggest problems which kills many many plants is that the root ball has dried out and the media has become water resistant. One sign of this is the water running straight down the inside of the pot and out the drainage hole. If it is a small pot, then it is easy to fix. Fill up the bucket with water and plunge it in. You will see bubbles and that is the air pockets being pushed out and filled with water. I suggest you leave it there for about 3-4 hours. Then pull the pot out and let it drain. That submersion will have re-wet the root ball and the media will start holding onto the water again. If it is a very large pot, block the drainage hole up with some bluetac and flood the pot with water and leave it for at least 24 hours. This hopefully will re-wet the potting mix. If these tricks don't work, then it is a sign that it needs re-potting.
Hint: On very hot days, bring your pots inside where the air temperature will be cooler.
And finally, my pots have a winter position and a summer position. I move them around according to the season. In summer they receive morning sun and afternoon shade and in winter they are moved back into the sun.
Sandra Pullman Bachelor Applied Science (Hort) Hons. Burnley-Uni Melb
Horticultural advisor to ABC TV - Gardening Australia
Website: http://www.garden.patch.com.au
Blogsite:http://www.sandisgardenpatch.blogspot.com
About the Author
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