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Feed Sheets
Exotic Pet Corn Snake Care Sheet: Feeding Corn Snake
Corn snakes,like all other snakes, are carnivorous. Meaning they feed only on the flesh of other animals. Corn snakes feed small rodents and sometimes lizards, although they have been known to take small birds from time to time. A pet corn snake owner, obviously, will have an easier time supplying his or her exotic pets with mice than anything else.
An active corn snake will eat every 10 days or so. It is recommended to feed your corn snake pre killed prey, especially if the snake has not been raised on live prey. A live prey may also turn on and attack a lazy snake that isn't feeling too hungry and possibly causing severe harm to your pet corn snake.
When to feed a corn snake and how much
Hatchlings are started out with pinkie mice for feedings and as the snake grows, gradually increase the size of the prey by offering fuzzies, crews, then small adult mice or rat pinkies.
A young hatchling will eat a pinkie mice every three days or so. Gradually, as hatchling gets bigger; feed it every four, five or six days. Around the time it is getting out to six days, it will be swallowing down a pinkie in next to no time, so try it with another one just as the tail of the first one disappears. If it takes two pinkies ok, continue with this for two or three more feedings and then offer it one fuzzy instead of the two pinkies. It might look too large for you, but if the snake can swallow it without difficulty, it is not too big. If you feed too much at one feeding session, or feed a prey item that is too big, your snake won't swallow it and will spit it out after trying. A general rule for food size is that up to 1+1?2 the snake's body girth is acceptable.
After a several more weeks of one fuzzy, repeat the process you did with pinkies. When your corn snake swallows a fuzzy easily, then try to feed it with two. And after a few feedings with two fuzzies, try it with small adult mice. A full grown Corn snake can eat a medium to large mouse.
How to feed a corn snake
Frozen prey need to be completely thawed and warmed slightly before feeding. After thawing, place the prey on a small plastic dish and place the dish in the cage and leave the snake to it. If the snake won't eat it after few hours, then remove it and throw it away.
Some snakes like their prey "jiggled" in front of them. To do this, pick the prey up by the tail with tongs (no sharp, pointy ends), and hold the prey in front of the snake for the snake to strike at.
Pet snakes that have refused to feed more than 2 times can be enticed into feeding by having the prey item slightly warmed, either by a heat lamp or soaked in warm water a few minutes before feeding. Don't put it in a microwave, as they can explode. Another trick to try is "braining", where you pierce the head of the prey with a knife point and liquid from the head exposed with forceps or tweezers. The smell of the liquid will entice your exotic pet corn snake to feed.
About the Author
Avicenna writes various of articles about exotic pets, such as pet snake, Turtles and more
How often should I feed my betta fish?
When I first got him, his instruction care sheet said to feed him 2-3 times a week.
About two weeks later I was reading the back of his food and it said to feed him 2-3 times a DAY.
I was feeling really bad but really didn't know what to do so I started feeding him once or twice a day.
How often SHOULD I be feeding him?
Both the food container and the care sheet are wrong. You want to feed him 6 days/wk, and fast him 1 day (no food.) Overfeeding a betta can cause constipation and other digestive issues, and since a betta's stomach is only the size of its eye, 2-3 pieces/1x/day is best.
Almost always ignore (most) food instructions and (most) pet store employees; both are looking to make $, not watching out for your pet, so they'll try and sell you stuff you don't need, things that do nothing, inadequate set-ups and provide false info. just to make a sale.
Live food is best, as it's similar to what he'd eat in the wild and they often like to "hunt" it. Frozen food is 2nd best. PetSmart/Petco both sell frozen foods: brine shrimp, bloodworms, glassworms, etc. It's around $4-5/bubble pack of food. Flakes, pellets, and freeze dried food have lots of filler that goes right through them because they can't digest it, it can cause bloating problem in senstive and old bettas and is the least nutritious. In order of best-to-worst for digestion/nutrition it's live, frozen, freeze-dried, flakes, then pellets.
If he's a picky eater, refusing or spitting out food is common. Sometimes they crunch it down to a better size they can eat more easily, sometimes they don't don't like the taste and sometimes just play with it. Other times, they don't recognize that what they're being fed is food if it's different than what they were fed before. Use a toothpick to "play" with the food: drag it along the surface, make it sink, etc. Usually that gets their attention and they'll try a piece.
Also, in order to keep his appetite up and him healthy:
1) As a tropical fish, he needs a heater and his water needs to be 78 degrees at all times. Temps. under 78 will stress him and that leads to poor digestion, lethargy, loss of appetite and/or death, i.e. this could be the cause of him not eating. Depending on the tank size, get the following: 1-gallon (7.5 or 10 watt heater: PetSmart and PetCo have them), 2.5-3 gallons: 25 watt heater (at most pet stores), 5 gallons: 50 watt heater (at most pet stores).
2) Water changes remove ammonia, which is toxic and forms in the water from uneaten food, waste, even his breathing. It's colorless and odorless so you can't tell if the water's okay by just cheking to see if it looks clean. For uncycled 100% water change tanks: 1 gallon or >: change 100% of the water (and rinse off plants, gravel, etc.) every 1-3 days; 2.5-3 gallons 2-3 times/week; 5 gallons 1-2 x's/week.
[HD]NHL 6/6/11 - Aaron Rome ANNIHILATES Nathan Horton - [CBC-Feed]