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Easel Back
EASELS Artist Easel Review
There's nothing to beat an easel for keeping a painting in place while you're working on it. Working vertically at an easel means you're working in the same plane as the painting will finally be hung, reduces the risk of spilling anything on it, or dust collecting on it. You can work sitting on a stool or standing, though standing at an easel makes it easy to step back to see how the painting is progressing.
What Kind of Easel Should I Get?
The type of easel you get depends on the kind of painting you do the most. If you like working on large-scale canvases, then a table-top easel is unsuitable. Likewise, if you only ever work on a small scale, then a table-top easel may be more ideal than a floor-standing easel. If you enjoy standing to paint, then consider a floor-standing easel. And if you paint very vigorously, you'll want a heavy easel for stability.
* My Favorite Painting Easels
Does It Matter What Medium I'm Using?
If you paint only with watercolors, you probably won't want an easel which will only hold your work vertically. Look for something that'll be easy to adjust the angle at which you're working. Oil paintings really should be held vertically or near vertical because they will collect less dust. Acrylics dry fast enough for dust not to be a real problem.
How Much Does a Painting Easel Cost?
Like most things, the price of easels varies, starting at inexpensive sketching and display easels, and ending at large-scale studio easels. If you're only just starting out, a table-top easel is probably the best (or sketching easel if you want to stand to paint). But if your heart is set on a floor-standing easel, don't compromise and buy something else. Rather save up for a bit longer.
Table-Top Easels
If space is an issue these are great as they don't take up floor space and can be folded up. Available in various forms, including ones that are scaled-down versions of floor-standing easels, tripod easels (three-legged), and ones with storage boxes. Won't take large-scale paintings. The ease of painting also depends on the height of your work surface; be wary of having bend down to paint.
* Buy Direct
Studio Easels
Studio easels are large, floor-standing easels that can accommodate big canvases. The ones with a square foot (H-frame) are more stable than the ones with three legs (two at the front, one at the back) but don't fold up as quickly to prop against a wall. Studio easels can get really huge, heavy, and really expensive! Let the size of canvas you're realistically going to use be your guide to easel size. Artisan Easels builds the best studio easel in the world!s the best studio easel in the world!
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French Easels
A French easel is a three-in-one easel: a sketchbox, an easel, and a canvas carrier. The sketchbox holds your painting supplies and palette; the legs and canvas-holding arm collapse to make it easy to carry; and there's somewhere to attach the canvas while you're transporting everything back home. The angle at which you work can be varied between vertical and horizontal.
Go here to check out the worlds best artist easel!
About the Author
Desmond A Campbell<br />Designer, craftsman, artist<br /><br />http://www.artisaneasels.com
What is a good way to do a Sculpey/Paper Mache Picture Frame?
I want to make picture frames for Christmas gifts, but when I make them completely out of Sculpey they crack, and it can also get cost prohibitive to buy that much clay. I was thinking about buying paper mache frames (http://www.thisandthat4you.com/Qstore/Qstore.cgi?CMD=011&PROD=1130185893&PNAME=8+x+10%22+Paper+Mache+Oval+Easel+Back+Frame) and either painting them or covering them with liquid sculpey and then gluing on poinsettias made from Sculpey using a mold. Is this a good way to do it, or can anybody think of a better suggestion?
There are loads of ways to use polymer clays or papier mache (or other things) to create freestanding frames, or to "cover" existing frames, or just to embellish them.
First, be aware that the cracking problem you had is just because of the brand and line of polymer clay you're using (if you were conditioning and baking correctly). Original (boxed, white or terracotta) Sculpey is the worst of all the brands/lines to do this, followed by boxed SuperSculpey-flesh and small bars of colored Sculpey III.
All other brands/lines of polymer clay will *not* be brittle after baking in any thin or projecting areas like those will--e.g., Premo, Kato Polyclay, Cernit, FimoClassic, with FimoSoft in-between and probably okay; those brands/lines would probably just flex if stressed, dropped, or bent, rather than cracking or chipping like the 3 Sculpeys.
As for the cost problem, there are various ways to keep the cost down when using polymer clays (++see below). But if you want to *completely* cover a *number* of *good-sized* frames, it could get more expensive than you'd want.
So you could just add polymer clay embellishments to the plain frames (or painted ones, etc), or add them on top of various kinds of air-dry clay that you'd used for most of the "covering," like homemade salt dough or bread clay:
http://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+salt+dough
http://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+bread+clay
...or even papier mache
...or purchased air-dry clays like Creative Paperclay, Crayola's Air Dry Clay, or even something like Celluclay
(Be aware though that all air-dry clays must be sealed after drying, unlike polymer clays, which can be as simple as applying a coat of permanent white glue like Elmers GlueAll thinned with water about 3-4 to 1--or use ModPodge,etc-- or polyurethane, or just paint with a permanent paint)
As for gluing molded (or free-made) bits of cured polymer clay to the frames, that would be fine and looks great but not sure why you mentioned using liquid polymer clay first. Liquid clay needs to be heated to cure just like solid polymer clay, so were you planning to use raw molded clay items on the cardboard frames then bake everything together, or what? (if so, check to make sure that doesn't warp the frames before you do a lot of work).
Liquid polymer clay is the very best adhesive to use with polymer clay but it isn't always necessary. You could easily adhere bits of baked clay to the cardboard (or acrylic-painted cardboard or clear-water-based-finish painted cardboard) with glues like 2-part epoxy glue, E6000 or a strong white glue like Weldbond or The Ultimate by Crafter's Pick, etc.
If you wanted to "compose" the raw clay pieces on the frame rather than doing the composing and gluing on after baking, you could probably use the "sheet of glass or tracing paper" trick that's used to create polymer clay "paintings," then glue all or at least larger pieces onto the frames after baking:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/paints.htm ..click on Relief & Onlay, then scroll down to the "Under Glass, Etc" area
You might also want to check out the FRAMES page at my online polymer clay "encyclopedia" to get more ideas about how polymer clayers cover or create all kinds of frames, in all kinds of ways:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/frames-mirrors.htm
And here's my page on MOLDS if you're interested in that too:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/molds.htm
And the page on Christmas too, in case you want to see various ideas:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/Christmas.htm
++
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=155163.msg1548395#msg1548395 (...wait till *MY* long answer pops up)
HTH, and have fun!
Diane B.
1955 Yonezawa Easel Back robot